Fault Codes

This is the washing machine fault-code page.

Note that these are not definitive lists, and manufacturers may change the codes without notice. This can be due to modifications, new on-board firmware, or later modified programmer boards during long manufacturing runs. Note also that some codes may cover more than one fault or major item in the machine. For this reason, the fault-codes quoted below should only be used as a guide to the problem area, not the actual failing part. I have tried to add additional information to some codes, to help in targeting the problem area. If you know any I missed, please mail this site.

AEG: This set covers those machines with “SENSORLOGIC”, that is most LAVAMAT series machines. The codes appear as a binary code read using the upper 4 or lower 4 of the spin-speed indicator unless there is a digital display. NOTE: only codes F1 and F2 can be cleared by the user, other codes may need to be cleared by a procedure ONLY AFTER THE FAULT IS RECTIFIED. The procedure is: HOLD IN THE SHORT SPIN AND PRE-WASH BUTTONS, THEN TURN SELECTOR KNOB FROM OFF TO GENTLE SPIN (SOME MODELS USE PRE-WASH + SOAKING HELD IN, THEN TURN FROM OFF TO SHORT-SPIN. SEE BELOW.

F1: Single flashing LED (900 spin) or F1 (C1 on some models) in the display – this usually means that the electronics is not detecting a fast enough cold fill supply, or NO cold water coming in at all. Check that the cold valve has not been turned off accidentally. Then check that the supply is OK, and that the connection hose is not kinked or flattened. If not any of these, then the cold supply solenoid valve is faulty.

F2: Single flasing LED (1000 spin) or F2 in the display (C2 on some models) – this usually means that the machine is detecting that the water is not pumping out. This is often due to foreign objects finding their way into the pump and jamming it. Follow the “Cleaning the Drain Pump” section in your user guide, which should also refer you to the “emergency draining” procedure first. Note that this could also be a sock or similar blocking the lower (sump) pipe that leads to the pump. Follow the draining procedure and tilt the machine on its side (no more than 45 degrees) to get at and inspect the sump hose. If not that, then remove the pump and test it on a test bench, replace if faulty.

F3: Two flashing LED (900 and 1000 spin) or F3 in display (C3 on some models) -This is quoted as “Aqua-Control triggered”. I suspect this is an unexpected high water level condition, and could be a faulty or jammed pump (See F2 above), or a faulty float (level) switch.

F7: Three flashing LED (900, 1000 and 1200) or F7 in display (C7 on soem models) – Heating fault. Check heater element for continuity, if OK, check heater relay. Continuous water input though a faulty valve can also give this error.

F8: NTC (thermistor) temperature sensing device short or open circuit. This replaces the old-fashioned thermostat, and usually measures between 20,000 and 30,000 ohms cold. This could be a C8 in the display on some models

F9: (C9 on some models) MOTOR FAULTS – the common cause of this is just worn out motor brushes. Be careful to get the serial number of the machine, and the part number and make of the motor, plus any numbers stamped on the brush-holders if you can, since there can be 3 or more different brush types in some machines of the same model number! The other causes of an F9 error are TACHOMETER short or open circuit, motor short or open circuit, or motor jammed. ALSO SEE C9 CODE: NOTE: the C9 on some AEG LAVAMAT models like the 71400, 72600,74620, 86720 and possibly others, is the same as the above F9, and is usually MOTOR BRUSHES WORN OUT. After replacement, you will need to clear the fault indication held in the PROGRAMMER PCB logic: With the Switch in the OFF position – Press and hold PRE-WASH and SOAKING buttons in at the same time, then turn the control knob to Short Spin. Wait one or two seconds and all the indicators should illuminate. Then turn the control knob to OFF. All the indicators should go out. Then try to use your machine as normal. This should clear the C9 error code. If it does NOT – there may be another fault present.

AEG: washer driers

E72: ON the L16830 model, this is the temperature sensor (NTC) faulty. With NTC faults, it is also worth checking the drum heating element. Kindly supplied by KM of London.


F16 Close the washing machine door properly; washing may be caught.

F17 Turn the tap on fully, check that the supply hose is not kinked/jammed; clean filter (see page 10 of manual). Also check water pressure is not too low.

F18 Clean the detergent/solution pump (see page 10) or ,check that the outlet pipe/drainage hose is not blocked.

F21 Motor fault. Call customer service. (NOTE: if the motor brushes are worn, these can be replaced by a competent person).

F23 Water in the base pan, appliance leaking. NOTE: With power off, remove back panel and check for leaking hoses, or a leaking door gasket, with a good torch. Call customer service.

Thanks to site consultant John Davis for the above information.

HOTPOINT/CREDA fault codes:

E10: No cold fill – check that the cold inlet tap is not turned off, or the inlet pipe is not kinked.

E11: No hot fill – check tap and hose as above.

E12: No MIXED fill – same checks as above, or possibly the inlet valve is faulty

E13: water inlet fault, or filling too slowly, similar checks to above.

E14: water not heating – check heater element or THERMISTOR (NTC).

E15: Water not pumping out, or pumping out too slowly. Check pump for obstruction or foreign objects jamming pump, or kinked drain hose, or blocked outlet/U-BEND.

E16: Very high water level – turn off water supply, and have inlet valve checked or replaced, or water level sensor checked/replaced.

E17: Door not closing properly, or door interlock faulty.

E20/21: THERMISTOR resistance drifted out of range (faulty), or ambient temperature below freezing.

E30/31: Motor problem – check motor brushes, drive belt, tachometer or tachometer magnet, motor relay or PCB (TRIAC motor control).

E40: Water level too low during heating cycle – check supply or inlet valve, or float level sensor. Check water pressure is high enough to fill within time limits of logic checks.

E41: Water level detect sequence error – check items above for E40, plus jammed pump.

E50/51: Model specific language and programmer codes have not been loaded/saved in programmer memory correctly. The machine will run on programmer common defaults (1000rpm spin and English). Book an engineer to reprogram the unit.

F01: Aquarius and Ultima models may show this. It could be a faulty motor or motor control board. The motor tachometer could also be faulty. Some machines have a little rotating magnet and sensor, and the magnet can become detached (not sure about these though on this model). NOTE: if this code is not constant, and tending to come up during spin, check the drive belt for wear or slack, and check the motor brushes.

F04: possible filling or water level problem. Check water inlet pipe (or shut-off valve), or the outlet pipe, or the pump or pump filter if accessible (check for blockages or foreign objects). Also could be the water valve solenoid weak, causing filling to be too slow.

F05: possible draining (pumping off) problem, check the pump filter, or pump, outlet pipe, or U-BEND.

F07: Heater control or heater relay, or heater element problem.

F08: Heater control or NTC (Thermistor) temperature sensor problem.

F11: Pump related. Pump not able to empty water correctly. More blockages to check for: something inside the pump stopping it or reducing it speed. Sump hose blocked between the outer drum and the pump. Outlet hose blocked between the machine and the U-BEND. The pump could also be weak, pumping too slowly, or intermittent.

F13: (some washer/driers e.g. WDD906) – this means Thermistor or Blower motor fault. HOWEVER – this can just be the blower-unit intake filter blocked up, causing the blower unit to overheat. See the fix in the FAQ section kindly supplied by CRB of the New Forest HERE