In the cases of standing water or water under pressure – caused, for example, by burst pipes or a rising water table – the question arises, what steps should be taken by the tradesman to renovate the damaged wooden flooring?
Step One
First of all, the extent of moisture damage to the fully bonded wood must be determined. For example, if the wooden flooring is a little swollen and is slightly diminished due to ingress of rain, then it can remain and can be renovated. After measuring air humidity and temperature in the affected area, ventilation equipment - for example, an air dehumidifier from Wolff - must be installed to quickly dry out the damp wood flooring. The moisture content of the wood should be measured as a control using, for example, a Gann hydrometer. As soon as a moisture content of maximum nine percent is reached, sanding of the wood is to be renovated can commence. It should be noted that the maximum material thickness to be removed depends on the thickness of the wood. For 22 millimetre solid parquet, for example, the maximum is eleven millimetres, for pre-finished parquet, no more than the top wear layer can be sanded off. Then the joints are filled with joint seal paste (for example, with Pall X Kitt from Pallmann) and two coats of seal are applied (Pall X 96).
Step Two
In the case of extensive water damage, from standing water or water under pressure, the wooden flooring is heavily swollen and warped and is partially detached. Usually in this situation, the only option is to completely remove the wood. For this, the wood must be removed using suitable equipment. Then the substrate must be tested for full functionality. If there are screed cracks, or if the Ri-Ri scratch-test reveals a soft or crumbling screed surface, the screed construction must be completely removed using compressor-driven tools.
Step Three
Water damage is also often connected with moisture saturation of the incorporated damp-proof membrane under the screed. Water that collects on the membrane following water damage has difficulty in drying out by natural means, most often not drying out at all. From the effects of moisture, insulation materials lose their thermal and acoustic insulation properties. Wetness in the screed means that static damage is to be expected. Natural drying of the isolating membrane, due to the physical conditions, is not possible. In such cases, special equipment for drying the damp-proof membrane has to be used.
Step Four
If the screed construction is functional, a moisture measurement must be taken, using CM test equipment. If the value for cement screeds is above two percent, and for calcium sulphate screeds above 0.5 percent, the screed must also be dried with the aid of suitable equipment. To be sure, cement-based screed constructions should have a surface barrier system using Epoxy Primer PE 460 from Uzin. Such a barrier system is not possible for gypsum-based screeds - here, it is recommended that the construction is removed and replaced, since calcium sulphate screeds have a high gypsum content and store moisture for long periods.
Step Five
After barrier-sealing or replacing the screed construction, new wooden flooring is installed. For this, a smoothing coat of Wood Levelling Compound NC 174 is recommended, followed by adhesion of the flooring with Wood Adhesive Uzin MK 92 S. Then, with solid parquet for example, the surface can be treated with lacquer or oil and wax.
Step Six
Where water damage occurs with floating wood floor systems, the quickest and most economical option is most often to completely remove the flooring. However, if the floating floor is to be sanded, then wedges must first be fixed along all sides so as to secure the surface for sanding. Sanding of floating floor systems is, however, expensive and the result unsatisfactory, because the wood is weakened and joints cannot be permanently sealed.