The information below is of a general nature,relating to the plug and mains supply lead, and applies to most appliances.
You will generally find that a lot of appliances nowadays have star (TORX) screws, or even security screws (these have small “pips” in the centre, to prevent tampering), in the casework side panels, and many internal covers and parts. The serious DIY “fixer” should invest in a security bit set. The best one I have seen is the new 75mm long Security Bit set (32 bits), for around £15 from SCREWFIX. These will enable you to get into those recessed holes on some cover plates. Their part number is: D95315.
FUSE INFORMATION:The The Electrical Equipment (Safety) Regulations 1994, states the following: Typical fuse ratings for 220-240 voltage equipment: up to 750 watts - 3 Amp, up to 1250 Watts -5 Amp, over 1250 Watts -13 Amp. A lot of Portable Appliance Testing sites state the following: For the convenience of users, appliance manufacturers have standardised on two plug fuse ratings- 3A & 13A and adopted appropriate flex sizes. For appliances up to 700W a 3A fuse is used, for those over 700W a 13A fuse is used. Confusingly, you can still obtain 2 AMP, 5 AMP, and 10 AMP fuses from some wholesalers, in addition to the standard common 3, 5 and 13 amp ones mentioned above. Maplin only stock the 3, 5 and 13 though.
If you have eliminated the plug and fuse being faulty, the problem is either the device itself has an internal fault (see specific links), or the mains lead has a break somewhere. If it is an iron or hair curler, then it is nearly always at the appliance end. The latter will not be worth fixing, but the iron might be, if you can purchase the correct cable, or kept a similar cable assembly (with strain relief) from a similar iron. If it is something like a mains radio, or alarm clock radio, these cables sometimes get tripped over and pulled.The small thin cable used is mechanically weak, and will sometimes break near the plug. If you think it is that, try cutting off the last 4 inches of cable, and rewiring the plug.If you have one of those “live wire and pipe testers” (the sort that is adjustable, and bleeps when passed over metal or wire), you may find where the break is with that. The newer ones bleep differently for “live” wire, compared with just sensing on the metal cable.
JUST DO THIS ONE TIME ONLY, IF IT GOES AGAIN, THEN THE FAULT MUST BE RECTIFIED, SEE APPROPRIATE APPLIANCE HINTS. Note that high current devices like kettles and room heaters, can be running close to the 13 AMP rating of the fuse, and over time, weak fuses that are a bit under spec, can blow when there is no over-current. Hence the fact that you sometimes need to replace these when the appliance itself is not faulty.