This is a step by step guide to simple fixes I have found for anything that has a plug – TRY THIS BEFORE YOU THROW YOUR APPLIANCE AWAY!!
JUST DO THIS ONE TIME ONLY, IF IT GOES AGAIN, THEN THE FAULT MUST BE RECTIFIED, SEE APPROPRIATE APPLIANCE HINTS. Note that high current devices like kettles and room heaters, can be running close to the 13 AMP rating of the fuse, and over time, weak fuses that are a bit under spec, can blow when there is no over-current. Hence the fact that you sometimes need to replace these when the appliance itself is not faulty.
FUSE INFORMATION:The Electrical Equipment (Safety) Regulations 1994, states the following: Typical fuse ratings for 220-240 voltage equipment: up to 750 watts - 3 Amp, up to 1250 Watts -5 Amp, over 1250 Watts -13 Amp. A lot of Portable Appliance Testing sites state the following: For the convenience of users, appliance manufacturers have standardised on two plug fuse ratings- 3A & 13A and adopted appropriate flex sizes. For appliances up to 700W a 3A fuse is used, for those over 700W a 13A fuse is used. Confusingly, you can still obtain 2 AMP, 5 AMP, and 10 AMP fuses from some wholesalers, in addition to the standard common 3, 5 and 13 amp ones mentioned above. Maplin only stock the 3, 5 and 13 though.
DISMANTLING and REMOVING WIRES and MULTI-PLUGS: always make a drawing of what wire goes where, and what part goes where before removing ANYTHING from an appliance. Also back this up with a few shots with a DIGITAL CAMERA.
If a small appliance, such as a kettle or toaster has stopped working, that is, no power light shows when switched on, the first thing to check is the lead or plug. If it is the normal type of plug, take the plug-top off, and check that all three conductors are in the appropriate place (not pulled out of the terminals), and the screws are tight. Standard colours for UK are: BLUE = NEUTRAL, this goes into the LEFT, BROWN = LIVE, this goes on the right, with the insides facing you. The GREEN/YELLOW striped one is the EARTH wire, and this always goes to the top. NOTE: not all appliances have, or require earth wires. If the plug type is MOULDED, you will not be able to check this, just the fuse, see 2 below.
JUST DO THIS ONE TIME ONLY, IF IT GOES AGAIN, THEN THE FAULT MUST BE RECTIFIED, SEE APPROPRIATE APPLIANCE HINTS. Note that high current devices like kettles and room heaters, can be running close to the 13 AMP rating of the fuse, and over time, weak fuses that are a bit under spec, can blow when there is no over-current. Hence the fact that you sometimes need to replace these when the appliance itself is not faulty.
If you have eliminated the plug and fuse being faulty, the problem is either the device itself has an internal fault (see specific links), or the mains lead has a break somewhere. If it is an iron or hair curler, then it is nearly always at the appliance end. The latter will not be worth fixing, but the iron might be, if you can purchase the correct cable, or kept a similar cable assembly (with strain relief) from a similar iron. If it is something like a mains radio, or alarm clock radio, these cables sometimes get tripped over and pulled.The small thin cable used is mechanically weak, and will sometimes break near the plug. If you think it is that, try cutting off the last 4 inches of cable, and rewiring the plug. If you have one of those “live wire and pipe testers” (the sort that is adjustable, and bleeps when passed over metal or wire), you may find where the break is with that. The newer ones bleep differently for “live” wire, compared with just sensing on the metal cable. Maplin sell a non-contact A/C tester that is useful for checking cable breaks.
f you have a LAMINATE FLOOR in your utility room or kitchen area, where your dryer or washing machine are located, it is a good idea to protect your floor from any dampness or slight water leakage. The ideal simple an cheap way of doing this, is to purchase APPLIANCE TRAYS that are specifically designed to do this. They are less than £10, from http://www.birbek.com/ (See the “floor protection” link on the site).
If a small appliance, such as a kettle or toaster has stopped working, that is, no power light shows when switched on, the first thing to check is the lead or plug. If it is the normal type of plug, take the plug-top off, and check that all three conductors are in the appropriate place (not pulled out of the terminals), and the screws are tight. Standard colours for UK are: BLUE = NEUTRAL, this goes into the LEFT, BROWN = LIVE, this goes on the right, with the insides facing you. The GREEN/YELLOW striped one is the EARTH wire, and this always goes to the top. NOTE: not all appliances have, or require earth wires. If the plug type is MOULDED, you will not be able to check this, just the fuse, see 2 below.
JUST DO THIS ONE TIME ONLY, IF IT GOES AGAIN, THEN THE FAULT MUST BE RECTIFIED, SEE APPROPRIATE APPLIANCE HINTS. Note that high current devices like kettles and room heaters, can be running close to the 13 AMP rating of the fuse, and over time, weak fuses that are a bit under spec, can blow when there is no over-current. Hence the fact that you sometimes need to replace these when the appliance itself is not faulty.